Thursday 12 January 2012

Victorian Steampunk Jewellery

A3358
This blog is really a response to Maduncle Cliff’s posts the other week. His look at the ‘steam punk’aesthetic caught my eye as I happened to be working on what appeared to be a couple of 150 year old examples in the Museum’s watch collection.

The urge to cut-up and repurpose old watch parts into new artistic forms was something the Victorians appear to have been aware of in the 1880s. But although the results look very much like steampunk they appear to have been made as a direct result of changing times in the watch-making world rather than a desire to embrace a new aesthetic.

Verge watch

Sprial chain drive from a verge watch, Powerhouse Museum H9076

For around 300 years most watches used a verge escapement which controlled the speed of the unwinding spring (the escapement is also responsible for the ‘ticking’ you can hear as the spring unwinds). By the 1850s however big changes had taken place as new escapements and mass produced Swiss parts made the old verge watches redundant.

But these old watches were not cheap items. In many instances the cases were made from gold or silver and sometimes the owner would have a new mechanism fitted into the case rather than give it up. This was not the norm however and most ended up being either melted down and reused or claimed as collector’s pieces.

These cases however were only the exterior cover for the highly sophisticated piece of precision engineering inside and this mechanism also contained ornately engraved and artistically finished details. One stand-out feature was the ornate balance-cock attached to the back of the watch movement.

A6839

Verge watch brooch, reverse, 1885-1900, Powerhouse Museum A6839

It was these balance cocks which were repurposed to make the necklaces, brooches and earrings in these photographs. While it is clear they weren’t targeted at the highest end of the fashion world, as the finished work is quite rough, they must have been reasonably popular because surviving examples are not rare.

Verge watch necklace

Verge watch necklace, detail, 1885-1900, Powerhouse Museum, A3351

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